Applications include – Pipe joints, O Rings, rivets, bolts, valves, actuators, aerospace components, engine components, turbine blade roots, armaments, strikers, springs and bearings. ApplicationsĮverlube products are applied on mating surfaces in a wide variety of environments. Most solid film coating lubricants achieve optimum wear properties when applied to a total thickness between 7 and 17 microns and when the lubricant is applied in very thin, multiple, uniform coats. Metal to metal contact areas are prone to a variety of performance issues which can be improved by the use of Everlube solid film lubricants, these improvements include Wear resistance, Friction reduction, Galling reduction, Heat resistance, Fluid resistance, Corrosion resistance, Torque/tension reduction, Interference fit improvement, No dirt pick up and High load resistance.Īpplication is by spraying, dipping, brushing, spray/ tumbling or dip/tumbling. BrandsĮverlube Products range includes the following well known brands: Formulations are heat cured or air drying depending on application requirements and available in solvent and water based compositions.ĪDDEV Materials has years’ of experience in supporting the application of these products and can assist with the implementation in any process. Plus you wouldn't want it to get on the friction faces.High performance resins are combined with lubricious pigments including PTFE, molybdenum disulphide and graphite, to provide a permanent protective layer. It looks like a perfect spline grease, but I'd be reluctant to put it in the clutch area as it could attract abrasive dust and become grinding paste. I looked up STABURAGS NBU 30 PTM to find out more about it. This coating provides a low coefficient of friction, good corrosion resistance, and performs best in higher load carrying applications. This grease is important to protect against fretting corrosion. Perma-Slik G is an air drying, MoS2 based, solid film lubricant with an epoxy binder system. Chuck's comment about using neutral at stop lights is good advice on avoiding hammering loads in the clutch.Īfter the coating is cured, splines still benefit from high temp grease or HT Grease with MoS2 added (but not in the clutch of course). This type of coating won't give any protection from hammering loads, but will extend the life of sliding surfaces. It is an air drying, MoS2 based solid film lubricant in an epoxy binder system, giving low friction, good corrosion resistance, and high load carrying capacity.Įven better is Everlube 620, but the coating needs to be baked at 150ish degrees C, which is inconvenient for some parts. I've been spraying every spline and sliding surface I uncover with molybdenum disulphide solid film lubricant labelled MIL-PRF-46147D.Įverlube makes a spray called Perma-Slik G which meets MIL-PRF-46147C. Perma-Slik G or Lubri-Bond 220 works well. Everlube 620C is purchased by a wide variety of markets, including Aerospace and Medical. Everlube 620C is also qualified to MIL-L-8937D, MIL-L-46010E Ty 1 and AS-5272 Ty. Gstallon's comment about dry film lubricant is good advice. Everlube 620C provides very good wear life, good abrasion resistance and performs best in higher load carrying applications. Our Everlube range of branded dry film lubricant products have been specifically designed to. I just put a clutch back together yesterday, but didn't lube it. As a leader in engineered coatings, Everlube Products has been at the forefront of dry film coating development for many years and as such are uniquely positioned to assist you in identifying the coating products most suited to your requirements. But the splines on the BMW are tiny in comparison to the Guzzi splines. When this is done you should use a dry film graphite spray or a good anti-seize lube on the splines on anything with splines.Ĭan you say more about that? I mean, would you basically spray the whole inside of the flywheel and the transmission input gear? And do you mean anti-seize paste - like the silver (or copper) stuff you put on bolt threads? My BMW specifies a Staburags (NBU 30 PTM) grease for the splines, which is so thick and sticky you have to brush it on. If you do take it out, it might be a good idea to replace the throwout bearing and springs - just for good measure. I wonder if weak springs could allow things to rattle around more than they should.Īt some point you'll have to decide whether to take it out for inspection or to ride it. If you put your ear to a wood dowel, you can touch the dowel to different parts of the case to try to isolate the noise.ĭid you replace or re-use the springs? When I did my twin-plate clutch recently (due to slippage), it seemed that the plates still had some life in them, but the springs were much weaker than the new springs. I'm also going to assume that you did not remove the flywheel.Īre you certain that all the springs are in correctly and that everything is properly tightened? I'm assuming you have not ridden the bike yet - and that you noticed the sound on your first start-up after the repair. It sits between the slave cylinder's piston and the pushrod.
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